The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, at least one amido ether carboxylic acid surfactant and at least one combination of at least one noncrosslinked anionic polymer and of at least one cationic polymer.
Compositions, in particular leave-in hair compositions, comprising an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer are known in the state of the art. These compositions exhibit good styling properties. However, when these polymer combinations are used in rinse-out compositions, such as shampoos, the styling properties of these compositions are not satisfactory. Thus, an alkyl ether carboxylate surfactant has already been combined, in Patent FR 2,383,660, with a cationic polymer and an anionic polymer. On one hand, the styling properties are not satisfactory and, on the other hand, the foaming power of such a composition is insufficient.
The target is to obtain cosmetic compositions which are capable of contributing, to the hair, properties of styling, of body, of shaping and of hold while having good cosmetic properties, such as softness, feel or disentangling, as well as a sufficient foaming power for them to be used as a shampoo composition.
The Applicant Company has discovered, surprisingly, that, by combining at least one alkylamido ether carboxylic acid surfactant or its salts with at least one combination of an anionic polymer and of a cationic polymer, the styling, body, shaping and hold properties of the hair were substantially superior to those obtained with the surfactants of the prior art used in combination with the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer.
The composition according to the invention is therefore essentially characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, at least one amido ether carboxylic acid surfactant or its salts and at least one combination of at least one noncrosslinked anionic polymer and of at least one cationic polymer.
Another subject-matter of the invention is the use of the composition described above for the styling or the shaping of the hair.
The amido ether carboxylic acid surfactant generally exhibits the following formula (I): 
in which R1 denotes a linear or branched, alkyl or alkenyl radical having from 5 to 23 carbon atoms or a phenyl radical substituted by an alkyl radical having from 6 to 10 carbon atoms. R1 preferably denotes an alkyl radical having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 16 carbon atoms. R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, a xe2x80x94(CH2CH2O)nCH2COOM radical or a xe2x80x94(CH2CH2O)m radical and preferably a hydrogen atom; n and m, which are identical or different, represent a number between 1 and 20, preferably between 1 and 10 and more particularly between 1 and 5. M denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal (for example Na+ or K+), NH4+ or ammoniums comprising a residue chosen from basic amino acids, such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline, or else from aminoalcohols, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, glucamine, N-methylglucamine or 3-amino-1,2-propanediol.
These amido ether carboxylic acid compounds are described in particular in Patent Applications EP-A-699,435 and EP-A-102,118.
A particularly preferred amido ether carboxylic acid surfactant is the sodium salt of formula: 
in which n has a mean value of 3.
Such a compound is, for example, sold under the name Akypofoam 30 BV by the company Chem Y.
According to the invention, use may be made of any noncrosslinked anionic polymer or of any cationic polymer known per se. These polymers can be used in dissolved form or in the form of dispersions of solid polymer particles.
The noncrosslinked anionic polymers generally used are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulphonic or phosphoric acid and have a weight-average molecular weight of between approximately 500 and 5,000,000.
1) The carboxyl groups are contributed by unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula: 
in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A denotes a methylene group, optionally bonded to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighbouring methylene group when n is greater than 1 via a heteroatom, such as oxygen or sulphur, R5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group, R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, and R4 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group or a xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94COOH, phenyl or benzyl group. In the abovementioned formula, a lower alkyl radical preferably denotes a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular methyl and ethyl.
The preferred anionic polymers comprising carboxyl groups according to the invention are:
A) homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and in particular the products sold under the names Versicol E or K by the company Allied Colloid and Ultrahold by the company BASF, the copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names Reten 421, 423 or 425 by the Company Hercules or the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids.
B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer, such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters or esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid. These copolymers can be grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol, such as polyethylene glycol. Such polymers are disclosed in particular in French Patent 1,222,944 and German Application 2,330,956. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers comprising, in their chain, an optionally N-alkylated and/or -hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit, such as disclosed in particular in Luxembourgian Patent Applications 75370 and 75371 or provided under the name Quadramer by the Company American Cyanamid. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, of (meth)acrylic acid and of C1-C20 alkyl (meth)acrylate, for example lauryl (meth)acrylate (such as that sold by the company ISP under the name Acrylidone LM), tert-butyl (meth)acrylate (Luviflex VBM 70, sold by BASF) or methyl (meth)acrylate (Stepanhold Extra, sold by Stepan), and methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/tert-butyl acrylate terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Luvimer 100 P by the company BASF.
C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as those comprising, in their chain, vinyl acetate or propionate units and optionally other monomers, such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid comprising a long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, it optionally being possible for these polymers to be grafted, or alternatively a vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester of an xcex1- or xcex2-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are disclosed, inter alia, in French Patents 1,222,944, 1,580,545, 2,265,782, 2,265,781, 1,564,110 and 2,439,798. Commercial products coming within this class are the Resins 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 sold by the company National Starch.
D) copolymers derived from C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides chosen from:
copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer chosen from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, or acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functional groups of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated; such polymers are disclosed in particular in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,047,398, 2,723,248 and 2,102,113 and Patent GB 839,805 and in particular those sold under the names Gantrez AN or ES, or Avantage CP by the company ISP.
copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydrides and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allyl or methallyl esters, optionally comprising one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide or xcex1-olefin groups, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functional groups of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated. These polymers are, for example, disclosed in French Patents 2,350,384 and 2,357,241 of the Applicant Company.
E) polyacrylamides comprising carboxylate groups.
The polymers comprising sulpho groups are polymers comprising vinylsulphonic, styrenesulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic or acrylamidoalkylsulphonic units.
These polymers can in particular be chosen from:
salts of polyvinylsulphonic acid having a weight-average molecular weight of between approximately 1000 and 100,000, as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer, such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone.
salts of polystyrenesulphonic acid, the sodium salts having a weight-average molecular weight of approximately 500,000 and of approximately 100,000 sold respectively under the names Flexan 500 and Flexan 130 by National Starch. These compounds are disclosed in Patent FR 2,198,719.
salts of polyacrylamidosulphonic acids, such as those mentioned in U.S. Pat. No. 4,128,631 and more particularly the polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulphonic acid sold under the name Cosmedia Polymer HSP 1180 by Henkel.
According to the invention, the anionic polymers are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers, such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold in particular under the name Ultrahold Strong by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butyl-benzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold in particular under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, or acrylic acid and its esters, such as the monoesterified methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the name Gantrez by the company ISP, copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit L by the company Rohm Pharma, methacrylic acid/methyl methacrylate/C1-C4 alkyl acrylate/acrylic acid or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl methacrylate copolymers sold in the form of dispersions under the name Amerhold DR 25 by the company Amerchol or under the name Acudyne 255 by the company Rxc3x6hm and Haas, copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer MAEX or MAE by the company BASF and vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers grafted by polyethylene glycol sold under the name Aristoflex A by the company BASF, or acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers sold, for example, under the name Versicol E 5.
The most particularly preferred noncrosslinked anionic polymers are chosen from the monoesterified methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name Gantrez ES 425 by the company ISP, the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold under the name Ultrahold Strong by the company BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit L by the company Rohm Pharma, the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer MAEX or MAE by the company BASF, the vinylpyrrolidone/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate terpolymers sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP and the acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers sold, for example, under the name Versicol E 5.
According to the invention, use may also be made of anionic polymers in the latex or pseudolatex form, that is to say in the form of a dispersion of insoluble polymer particles.
According to the invention, use may also be made of anionic polymers of grafted silicone type comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion composed of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer and the other being grafted onto the said main chain. These polymers are, for example, disclosed in Patent Applications EP-A-0,412,704, EP-A-0,412,707, EP-A-0,640,105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-0,582,152 and WO 93/23009 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,693,935, 4,728,571 and 4,972,037.
Such polymers are, for example, the copolymers which can be obtained by radical polymerization from the mixture of monomers composed of:
a) 50 to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate;
b) 1 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid;
c) 5 to 40% by weight of silicone macromer of formula: 
with v being a number ranging from 5 to 700; the percentages by weight being calculated with respect to the total weight of the monomers.
One family of silicone polymers with a polysiloxane skeleton grafted with non-silicone organic monomers which is particularly well suited to the implementation of the present invention is composed of the silicone polymers comprising, in their structure, the following unit of the formula (III): 
in which the G1 radicals, which are identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C1-C10 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; the G2 radicals, which are identical or different, represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one anionic monomer possessing ethylenic unsaturation; G4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one hydrophobic monomer possessing ethylenic unsaturation; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer which can be between 10 and 350 and c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that one of the parameters a and c is other than 0.
The unit of formula (III) above preferably exhibits at least one, and more preferably still all, of the following characteristics:
the G1 radicals denote a C1-C10 alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical;
n is nonzero and the G2 radicals represent a divalent C1-C3 radical, preferably a propylene radical;
G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid possessing ethylenic unsaturation type, preferably acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid;
G4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the C1-C10 alkyl (meth)acrylate type, preferably isobutyl or methyl (meth)acrylate.
The unit of formula (III) above can also preferably exhibit all of the following characteristics:
the G1 radicals denote a C1-C10 alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical;
n is nonzero and the G2 radicals represent a divalent C1-C3 radical, preferably a propylene radical;
G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid possessing ethylenic unsaturation type, preferably acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid;
c is equal to zero.
Examples of grafted silicone polymers are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a connecting link of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the poly((meth)acrylic acid) type and of the poly(alkyl (meth)acrylate) type, such as poly(isobutyl (meth)acrylate). Use is particularly made of the grafted silicone polymers of formula (III) with a polymethyl/methylsiloxane structure comprising poly(methacrylic acid)-3-thiopropyl groups and poly(methyl methacrylate)-3-thiopropyl groups and the grafted silicone polymers of formula (III) with a polymethyl/methylsiloxane structure comprising poly(acrylic acid)-3-thiopropyl groups.
The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se, in particular those disclosed in Patent Application EP-A-0,337,354 and in French Patent Applications FR-A-2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.
More generally still, within the meaning of the present invention, the expression xe2x80x9ccationic polymerxe2x80x9d denotes any polymer comprising cationic groups or groups which can be ionized to cationic groups.
The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which comprise units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a side substituent directly connected to the latter.
The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5xc3x97106 approximately and preferably of between 103 and 3xc3x97106 approximately.
Mention may more particularly be made, among the cationic polymers, of the polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and poly(quaternary ammonium) type. These are known products.
One family of cationic polymers is that of the silicone cationic polymers. Mention may be made, among these polymers, of: (a) silicone polymers corresponding to the following formula (IV):
R6aG53xe2x88x92axe2x80x94Si(OSiG62)nxe2x80x94(OSiG7bR72xe2x88x92b)mxe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94SiG83xe2x88x92a, xe2x80x94R8a,xe2x80x83xe2x80x83(IV)
in which:
G5, G6, G7 and G8, which are identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH, C1-C18 alkyl, for example methyl, C2-C18 alkenyl or C1-C18 alkoxy group,
a and axe2x80x2, which are identical or different, denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0,
b denotes 0 or 1 and in particular 1,
m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) can vary in particular from 1 to 2000 and especially from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10,
R6, R7 and R8, which are identical or different, denote a monovalent radical of the formula xe2x80x94CqH2qOsR9tL, in which q is a number from 1 to 8, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or to 1, R9 denotes an optionally hydroxylated alkylene group and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups:
xe2x80x94NRxe2x80x3xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94Nxe2x80x2(Rxe2x80x3)2
xe2x80x94N(Rxe2x80x3)2
xe2x80x94N⊕(Rxe2x80x3)3Axe2x88x92
xe2x80x94N⊕H(Rxe2x80x3)2Axe2x88x92
xe2x80x94N⊕H2(Rxe2x80x3)Axe2x88x92
xe2x80x94N(Rxe2x80x3)xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94N⊕Rxe2x80x3H2Axe2x88x92,
in which Rxe2x80x3 can denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-comprising radical, for example an alkyl radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and Axe2x88x92 represents a halide ion, such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
Products corresponding to this definition are, for example, the polysiloxanes named xe2x80x9camodimethiconexe2x80x9d in the CTFA dictionary and corresponding to the following formula (V): 
in which xxe2x80x2 and yxe2x80x2 are integers depending on the molecular weight, generally such that the said molecular weight is between 5000 and 20,000 approximately.
A product corresponding to the formula (IV) is the polymer named xe2x80x9ctrimethylsilylamodimethiconexe2x80x9d in the CTFA dictionary, corresponding to the formula: 
in which n and m have the meanings given above (cf. formula IV).
A commercial product corresponding to this definition is a mixture (90/10 by weight) of a polydimethylsiloxane comprising aminoethylaminoisobutyl groups and of a polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name Q2-8220 by the company Dow Corning.
Such polymers are disclosed, for example, in Patent Application EP-A-95,238.
Other polymers corresponding to the formula (IV) are the silicone polymers corresponding to the following formula (VI): 
in which:
R10 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-comprising radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example a methyl radical;
R11 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-comprising radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18 alkyleneoxy radical, for example a C1-C8 radical;
Qxe2x88x92 is a halide ion, in particular a chloride ion; r represents a mean statistical value of 2 to 20 and in particular of 2 to 8;
s represents a mean statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.
Such polymers are disclosed more particularly in U.S. Pat. No. 4,185,087. (b) the compounds of formula: NHxe2x80x94[(CH2)3xe2x80x94Si[OSi(CH3)3]]3 corresponding to the CTFA name xe2x80x9caminobispropyldimethiconexe2x80x9d.
A polymer coming within this class is the polymer sold by the Company Union Carbide under the name xe2x80x9cUcar Silicone ALE 56xe2x80x9d.
When these silicone polymers are employed, a particularly advantageous embodiment is their joint use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants. Use may be made, for example, of the products sold under the name xe2x80x9cEmulsion Cationique DC 929xe2x80x9d [Cationic Emulsion DC 929] by the Company Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant comprising a mixture of products corresponding to the formula (VII): 
in which R12 denotes alkenyl and/or alkyl radicals having from 14 to 22 carbon atoms which are derived from tallow fatty acids, in combination with a nonionic surfactant of formula:
C9H19xe2x80x94C6H4xe2x80x94(OC2H4)10xe2x80x94OH
known under the name xe2x80x9cNonoxynol 10xe2x80x9d.
Another commercial product which can be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cDow Corning Q2 7224xe2x80x9d by the Company Dow Corning comprising, in combination, the trimethylsilylamodimethicone of formula (IV), a nonionic surfactant of formula: C8H17xe2x80x94C6H4xe2x80x94(OCH2CH2)nxe2x80x94OH, where n=40, also known as octoxynol-40, another nonionic surfactant of formula: C12H25xe2x80x94(OCH2xe2x80x94CH2)nxe2x80x94OH, where n=6, also known as isolaureth-6, and glycol.
The polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide or poly(quaternary ammonium) type which can be used in accordance with the present invention which can be mentioned in particular are those disclosed in French Patents No. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997. Mention may be made, among these polymers, of:
(1) optionally quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name xe2x80x9cGafquat(copyright)xe2x80x9d by the Company ISP, such as, for example, Gafquat 734, 755 or HS100, or else the product named xe2x80x9cCopolymer 937xe2x80x9d. These polymers are disclosed in detail in French Patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573.
(2) cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups disclosed in French Patent 1,492,597 and in particular the polymers sold under the names xe2x80x9cJRxe2x80x9d (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or xe2x80x9cLRxe2x80x9d (LR 400, LR 30M) by the Company Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.
(3) cationic cellulose derivatives, such as the copolymers of cellulose or the cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and disclosed in particular in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses, grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name xe2x80x9cCelquat L 200xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cCelquat H 100xe2x80x9d by the Company National Starch.
(4) the cationic polysaccharides disclosed more particularly in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307 and more particularly the product sold under the name xe2x80x9cJaguar C.13 Sxe2x80x9d by the Company Meyhall.
(5) polymers composed of piperazinyl units and of divalent, straight- or branched-chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulphur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are disclosed in particular in French Patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.
(6) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bisunsaturated derivative, a bishalohydrin, a bisazetidinium, a bishaloacyldiamine or an alkyl bishalide or alternatively by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with respect to a bishalohydrin, a bisazetidinium, a bishaloacyldiamine, an alkyl bishalide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bisunsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functional groups, quaternized. Such polymers are disclosed in particular in French Patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.
(7) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by an alkylation by bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyl/dialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are disclosed in particular in French Patent 1,583,363.
Mention may more particularly be made, among these derivatives, of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name xe2x80x9cCartaretine F, F4 or F8xe2x80x9d by the company Sandoz.
(8) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylenepolyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, the molar ratio of polyalkylenepolyamine to dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being brought to react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin in relation to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Such polymers are disclosed in particular in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name xe2x80x9cHercosett 57xe2x80x9d by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name of xe2x80x9cPD 170xe2x80x9d or xe2x80x9cDelsette 101xe2x80x9d by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(9) cyclopolymers of methyldiallylamine or of diallyldimethylammonium, such as the homopolymers or the copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to the formulae (VIII) or (VIIIxe2x80x2): 
in which formulae k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1; R15 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R13 and R14, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms or a lower amidoalkyl group or R13 and R14 can denote, jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Yxe2x88x92 is an anion, such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate or phosphate. These polymers are disclosed in particular in French Patent 2,080,759 and in its Certificate of Addition 2,190,406.
Mention may be made, for example, of the homopolymer of diallyldimethylammonium chloride sold under the name xe2x80x9cMerquat 100xe2x80x9d by the company Merck and of the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide sold under the name xe2x80x9cMerquat 550xe2x80x9d.
(10) the quaternary diammonium polymer comprising repeat units corresponding to the formula (IX): 
in which formula (IX):
R16, R17, R18 and R19, which are identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals or R16, R17, R18 and R19, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else R16, R17, R18 and R19 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or xe2x80x94COxe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94R20xe2x80x94D or xe2x80x94COxe2x80x94NHxe2x80x94R20xe2x80x94D group, where R20 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;
A1 and B1 represent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which can contain, bonded to or inserted into the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulphur atoms or sulphoxide, sulphone, disulphide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
Xxe2x88x92 denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;
A1, R16 and R18 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a (CH2)nxe2x80x94COxe2x80x94Dxe2x80x94OCxe2x80x94(CH2)nxe2x80x94 group
xe2x80x83in which D denotes:
a) a glycol residue of formula: xe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94Zxe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-comprising radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae:
xe2x80x94(CH2xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94O)xxe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94
[CH2xe2x80x94CH(CH3)xe2x80x94O]yCH2xe2x80x94CH(CH3)xe2x80x94
xe2x80x83where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization, or any number from 1 to 4 representing a mean degree of polymerization;
b) a bissecondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;
c) a bisprimary diamine residue of formula: xe2x80x94NHxe2x80x94Yxe2x80x94NHxe2x80x94, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-comprising radical or else the divalent radical
xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94Sxe2x80x94Sxe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94;
d) a ureylene group of formula: xe2x80x94NHxe2x80x94COxe2x80x94NHxe2x80x94.
Preferably, Xxe2x88x92 is an anion, such as chloride or bromide.
These polymers have a number-average molecular mass generally of between 1000 and 100,000.
Polymers of this type are disclosed in particular in French Patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.
11) polymers of poly(quaternary ammonium)s composed of units of formula (X): 
in which formula:
R21, R22, R23 and R24, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, xcex2-hydroxyethyl, xcex2-hydroxypropyl or xe2x80x94CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical,
where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R21, R22, R23 and R24 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
r and s, which are identical or different, are integers of between 1 and 6,
q is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 34,
X denotes a halogen atom,
A3 denotes a radical from a dihalide or preferably represents xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94.
Such compounds are disclosed in particular in Patent Application EP-A-122,324.
Mention may be made among these, for example, of the products xe2x80x9cMirapol(copyright) A 15xe2x80x9d, xe2x80x9cMirapol(copyright) AD1xe2x80x9d, xe2x80x9cMirapol(copyright) AZ1xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cMirapol(copyright) 175xe2x80x9d, sold by the company Miranol.
(12) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and comprising units: 
in which the R30 groups independently denote H or CH3,
the A2 groups independently denote a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
the R25, R26 and R27 groups, which are identical or different, independently denote an alkyl group of 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical,
the R28 and R29 groups represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
X2xe2x88x92 denotes an anion, for example methyl sulphate or halide, such as chloride or bromide.
The comonomer or comonomers which can be used in the preparation of the corresponding copolymers belong to the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted at the nitrogen by lower alkyls, alkyl esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl esters.
(13) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat(copyright) FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
(14) polyamines, such as Polyquart H sold by Henkel, referenced under the name xe2x80x9cPolyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyaminexe2x80x9d in the CTFA dictionary.
(15) crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by a crosslinking by a compound possessing olefinic unsaturation, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may more particularly be made of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (20/80 by weight) copolymer in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name of xe2x80x9cSalcare SC 92xe2x80x9d by the Company Allied Colloids. Use may also be made of a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name of xe2x80x9cSalcare(copyright) SC 95xe2x80x9d by the Company Allied Colloids.
Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
Preference is given, among all the cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the present invention, to the use of cyclopolymers, in particular copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and of acrylamide having a molecular weight of greater than 500,000, sold under the names xe2x80x9cMerquat 550xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cMerquat(copyright) Sxe2x80x9d by the Company Merck, cationic polysaccharides and more particularly the polymer sold under the name xe2x80x9cJaguar(copyright) C13Sxe2x80x9d by the Company Meyhall, and polyaminoamides of the family (6) which are described above.
According to the invention, it is also possible to use cationic polymers in the latex or pseudolatex form, that is to say in the form of a dispersion of insoluble polymer particles.
According to the invention, the anionic polymer or polymers can represent from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and more preferably still from 0.1% to 7% by weight of the total weight of the final composition.
According to the invention, the cationic polymer or polymers can represent from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and more preferably still from 0.5% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the final composition.
According to the invention, the amido ether carboxylic acid surfactant or surfactants can represent from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and more preferably still from 1% to 15% by weight of the total weight of the final composition.
The cationic charge of the cationic polymer(s)/anionic charge of the anionic polymer(s) ratio, expressed in meq/g, is generally between 0.25 and 5, preferably between 0.5 and 2 and more preferably still between 0.75 and 1.25.
The cationic charge is the quaternary, tertiary, secondary or primary amine atom number per gram of polymer.
The cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium is preferably composed of water or a mixture of water and of cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable solvents, such as monoalcohols, polyalcohols, glycol ethers or fatty acid esters, which can be used alone or as a mixture.
Mention may more particularly be made of lower alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol, polyalcohols, such as diethylene glycol, or glycol ethers, such as glycol or diethylene glycol alkyl ethers.
The composition of the invention can also comprise at least one additive chosen from sequestering agents, softeners, foam-modifying agents, colorants, pearlescent agents, moisturizing agents, antidandruff or antiseborrhoeic agents, suspending agents, ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acids with linear or branched C16-C40 chains, hydroxy acids, electrolytes, thickeners, fatty acid esters, esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, silicones, surfactants, fragrances, preservatives, sunscreen agents, proteins, vitamins, nonionic polymers, vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic oils and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field.
These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions which can range from 0 to 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. The precise amount of each additive depends on its nature and is readily determined by a person skilled in the art.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible compound or compounds to be added to the composition according to the invention so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition.
The compositions according to the invention can be provided in the form of a gel, milk, cream, more or less thickened lotion, or foam.
The compositions according to the invention are generally used as products in particular for washing, caring for, conditioning or retaining the hair-style or shaping keratinous substances, such as the hair.
The compositions of the invention can more particularly be provided in the form of a shampoo or conditioner to be rinsed out or left in or of permanent-wave, hair-straightening, dyeing or bleaching compositions or alternatively in the form of compositions to be applied before or after a dyeing, a bleaching, a permanent wave or a hair straightening process or alternatively between the two stages of a permanent wave or of a hair straightening. The compositions are preferably washing compositions.
The compositions according to the invention, when they are provided in particular in the form of washing compositions, such as shampoos, comprise a washing base, generally an aqueous washing base.
The surfactant or surfactants forming the washing base can be chosen without distinction, alone or as mixtures, from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants.
The minimum amount of washing base is that just sufficient to confer a satisfactory foaming and/or detergent power on the final composition.
Thus, according to the invention, the washing base can represent from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight and more preferably still from 12% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the final composition.
The surfactants which are suitable for the implementation of the present invention are in particular the following:
(i) Anionic Surfactant(s)
Their nature does not assume a really critical character within the context of the present invention.
Thus, mention may in particular be made, by way of example of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, of (non-limiting list) the salts (in particular alkali metal, especially sodium, salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates or monoglyceride sulphates; alkyl sulphonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamido sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, xcex1-olefin sulphonates or paraffin sulphonates; alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates or alkylamide sulphosuccinates; alkylsulphosuccinamates; alkyl sulphoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Mention may also be made, among the anionic surfactants which can be used further, of the salts of fatty acids, such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, or the acids of coconut oil or of hydrogenated coconut oil; or acyllactylates in which the acyl radical comprises 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Use may also be made of weakly anionic surfactants, such as alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids and their salts, as well as of polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and their mixtures.
Use is preferably made according to the invention, among the anionic surfactants, of alkyl sulphate and alkyl ether sulphate salts and their mixtures.
(ii) Nonionic Surfactant(s)
The nonionic surface-active agents themselves are also compounds which are well known per se (in this respect see in particular the xe2x80x9cHandbook of Surfactantsxe2x80x9d by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie and Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178) and, in the context of the present invention, their nature does not assume any critical character. They can thus be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alphadiols, alkylphenols or fatty acids which are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated having a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range in particular from 2 to 50 and it being possible for the number of glycerol groups to range in particular from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of the copolymers of ethylene and propylene oxide or of the condensates of ethylene and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, the polyglycerolated fatty amides on average comprising 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; the polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide;
the oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; the fatty acid esters of sucrose, the fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, the alkyl polyglycosides, the N-alkylglucamine derivatives, or the amine oxides, such as the oxides of (C10-C14)alkylamines or the N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. It will be noted that alkyl polyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants which enter particularly well into the scope of the present invention.
(iii) Amphoteric or Zwitterionic Surfactant(s)
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surface-active agents, the nature of which does not assume any critical character in the context of the present invention, may be in particular (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms and comprising at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C8-C20)alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C8-C20)alkyl amido(C1-C6)alkyl betaines or (C8-C20)alkyl amido(C1-C6)alkyl sulphobetaines.
Mention may be made, among the amine derivatives, of the products sold under the name Miranol, as disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates with respective structures:
R2xe2x80x94CONHCH2CH2xe2x80x94N(R3)(R4)(CH2COOxe2x88x92)xe2x80x83xe2x80x83(2)
in which:
R2 denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R2xe2x80x94COOH present in hydrolysed coconut oil or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 denotes a xcex2-hydroxyethyl group and R4 denotes a carboxymethyl group; and
R2xe2x80x2xe2x80x94CONHCH2CH2xe2x80x94N(B)(C)xe2x80x83xe2x80x83(3)
in which:
B represents xe2x80x94CH2CH2OXxe2x80x2, C represents xe2x80x94(CH2)zxe2x80x94Yxe2x80x2, with z=1 or 2,
Xxe2x80x2 denotes the xe2x80x94CH2CH2xe2x80x94COOH group or a hydrogen atom,
Yxe2x80x2 denotes xe2x80x94COOH or the xe2x80x94CH2xe2x80x94CHOHxe2x80x94SO3H radical,
R2, denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R9xe2x80x94COOH present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl radical, in particular a C7, C9, C11 or C13 radical, a C17 alkyl radical and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 radical.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphocarboxyglycinate sold under the trade name Miranol C2M concentrate by the Company Miranol.
(iv) Cationic Surfactants
Mention may in particular be made, among the cationic surfactants, the nature of which does not assume any critical character in the context of the present invention, of (non-limiting list): the salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines; quaternary ammonium salts, such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or amine oxides of cationic nature.
When the composition according to the invention is packaged in aerosol form for the purpose of obtaining an aerosol foam, it comprises at least one propellent which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons, such as n-butane, propane, isobutane or pentane, a chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbon and their mixtures. Use may also be made, as propellent, of carbon dioxide gas, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, compressed air and their mixtures.
Another subject-matter of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, such as the hair, which consists in applying, to the latter, a composition as defined above and in then optionally rinsing with water.
The invention will now be more fully illustrated using the following examples, which should not be regarded as limiting it to the embodiments described. In what follows, AM means Active Material.